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2 SheetsSheet 1.

(No Model.)

F. COOKER.

HAT BRIM GURLING MACHINE No. 286.908. Patented Oct. 16, 1883.

figure 2,

wwmisswsa P QOGKER 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 HAT BRIM GURLING MACHINE.

(No Model.)

Patented Oct. 16, 188.3.-

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FREDERICK COOKER, OF DANBURY, CONNECTICUT, ASSIGNOR TO THE HAT CURLING MAGHIN E COMPANY, OF SAME PLACE.

HAT-BRlM-CURLING MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 286,908, dated October 16, 1883,

Application tiled August 16, 1883. (N0 model.)

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, FREDERICK COOKER, a subject of the Queen of Great Britain, and residing at Danbury, in the county of Fairfield and State of Connecticut, have inventedacertain new and useful Improvement in Hat- Brim-Ourling Machines, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to that class of apparatus in which the outer edge of the hat-bri1n, in a moist state, is subjected to the action of one or more heated irons acting upon one side of the edge or rim, in conjunction with suitable heels or irons which act upon the other side of the edge or rim. In this class of apparatus the hatbody is usually mounted upon a revolving bed or table, which presents the edge of the hat-brim continuously to the curling mechanism, and, therefore, for convenience, I'have shown my invention as applied to a Well-known and ordinary form of apparatus constructed upon said plan 5 but the principle may be adapted and applied to other forms of hat-brim-curling apparatus. Heretofore in organized machines of this class the actual ironing or compression of the curl or lap has been effected between the lower side of the heated iron and the upper surface of the hat-supporting table or bed, and the heel or opening-iron, as its name im-' plies, has simply-performed the function of reopening or raising the fold or curl after it has been pressed down flat upon the horizontal portion of the brim, for the purpose of imparting to it the requisite angle withrelation to the latter. This construction and mode of operation are suitable only for the formation of brims or curls which are angular in cross.- sect-ion.

The object of my invention is to form curvilinear or round curls in crosssection by mechanical means and with an organized machine, and which curls are formed between. irons acting upon the edge of the brim and not between an iron and a surface, such as a revolving or stationary bed-plate or the like.

My invention consists in the special construction and arrangement of the curlingirons, which consist of a heating -iron the ironing-surface of which is constructed in the form of a semicircular or other curvilinear concave matrix, and of a correspondinglyformed convex heel or forming-iron, which forces the rim into and sustains it against the action of the opposed matrix, the formation, ironing, and stiffening of the rim or curl being effected exclusively by and between the said parts.

i In the accompanying drawings, which illustrate the application of my invention to one of the ordinary forms of hat-brim-curling machines, Figures 1 and 2 are respectively a side elevation and a plan of the main parts of the apparatus. Fig. 3 is a top view, and Fig. 4 a side elevation, of the convex heel or former. Fig. 5 is a view of the under side of the heating-matrix and the convex former, the parts being shown as in positions which they assume with relation to each other during the operation of curling. Fig. 6 is a side elevation of the matrix-iron, and Fig. 7 a vertical section through both the matrix-iron and the former in their relative positions during operation, showing a cross-section of a hat-brim under treatment.

In the drawings, A represents the frame of the machine, upon which is mounted central- 1y a revolving hat plate or support, B, which is actuated through the medium of suitable gearing, b, by the driving-shaft of the machine. The revolving hat-plate B is provided with an expansible brow-block, C, by which the hat-body is secured in the required position.

The curling devices D D, situated upon opposite sides of the revolving hat-plate, are mounted upon slides 01 d d cl, which are reciprocated by cam-surfaces c 0' upon the revolving hat-support B in the usual manner, thecam-surfaces corresponding to and causin brim.

In general construction the matrix-irons M are substantially the same as those heretofore used, being made hollow, and provided with openings to facilitate their being heated bya v gas-jet in the usual way. They are secured to slides on on, which are in turn mounted upon the slides d d, actuated directly by the tappet c of the revolving hat-plate B. The heel-pieces or formers N are also mounted independently upon the slides d d, their outer or back ends g 9 the curling-tools to follow the shape of the hatbeing pivoted thereto in such manner that their inner or working ends may be lowered to or raised from the revolving hat-plate B, as shown on opposite sides in Figs. 1 and 2. The matrix-irons M may also be correspond ingly advanced or retracted horizontally by means of eccentrics m m, for the purpose of bringing them into position to operate upon the hat-brim or to allow the hat to be removed. The matrix m, or portion of the heating-iron M which acts directly upon the hat-brim, is formed in the lower front edge of the iron in a longitudinal concave curve the radius of which is at least as great as that of the large curves formed at the sides of the hat and constituting the edges of the side brims. This matrix on is preferably semicircular in crosssection, although any othercurvilinear form may be given to it, according to the style or variety of curl to be imparted to the hat-brim.

' The matrix-groove m is also formed, at one or both extremities, with an enlarged semitrumpet-shaped mouth or guiding-surface, m so shaped as to take up and turn the edge of the hat-brim as it advances, and gradually bend it into the narrowest part of the groove m where the ironing and compressing are accomplished. This action of turning and guiding the edge of the brim into the matrix-groove m is contributed to largely and insured by the breaking or forming iron N, which is in the shape of a convex curve the radius of which is at least no greater than that of the smaller or front and rear curves of the hat, and is of semicircular or other convex curvilinear form in cross section to correspond with the matrix W, with the inner concave surface of which its outer convex surface is concentric in cross-section when the two irons are brought into their proper relative positions for operation upon the edge of the hat-bri1n, as will be seen by reference to Fig. 7

It will be observed that owing to the difference in the radii of the curve of the matrix at and the former N, the extremities of the latter diverge from the central portion of the matrix, as shown in Fig. 5, so that the edge of the hat-brim can readily enter between the two irons, and will be gradually and uniformly guided by the convex surface of the former N into the matrix m, and finally be compressed against its concave surface as the centeris approached. v

The operation is as follows: The expansible brow-block B is contracted, and the hat-body placed in position upon the revolving hatplate, and secured thereto by the rc-expansion of the brow-block. The hat-plate is usually set so as to present the front and rear portions of the hat-brim, at which points there is little or no curl to be turned to the curl ing-irons. The heel or forming-iron N is then lowered, so that it rests upon the horizontal portion of the hat-brim, and the heating-iron M is then forced forward into position by means of the eccentric m bringing the former N and matrix M into the relative positions shown in Figs. 5 and 7. The hat-plate B is then caused to revolve, gradually bringing the side brims of the hat under the action of the curling-irons, which are made to advance toward or recede from the center, to conform to the shape of the hat, by means of the cams c c acting upon the slides d (1. As the edge of the side rim advances, it is received by the enlarged entrance or month m, which gradually raises its edge and guides it into and be tween the matrix on and the former N which latter, by its convergence toward the center, forces the brim uniformly and evenly into the matrix, and sustains the inner side of the curl thus formed during its subjection to the heat and pressure. The change in the shape of the material thus being effected gradually and evenly, and both sides of the curl being rigidly sustained while subjected to the maximum degree of pressure, all danger of injury or derangement is avoided, and a stiffer and more permanent curl is produced than heretofore.

What I claim as my invention, and desire to secure by Letters Patent,is

1. In an organized machine for curling hatbrims, an iron and a former adapted for making curvilinear curls, and which are capable of making the curl independently of the hatplate or other opposing surface, substantially as herein described.

2. The process of curling hat-brims in an organized machine, which consists of passing the brim between curlingtools so shaped that the surfaces of the curling-tools alone act upon the hat-brim to compress and curl it, substantially as herein described.

3. The process of curling the brims of hats in an organized machine, and in which the hat or the curling-tools are rotated, and which consists in bringing the edge of the brim gradually to the shape desired without folding the curl fiat upon the brim, and then reopening the said curl to arrive at the shape desired, substantially as herein described.

FREDERICK COOKER.

Witnesses:

ALLAN WV. PAIGE, DAVID B. Boorr-r. 

